Is Your Walk a March or an Adventure?

The walk isn't for you. It's for him.

Let's be honest – we often treat dog walking as a chore. Get out quickly, let the dog do his business, maybe walk to the park and back. We go from point A to point B. We want to get home.

But do you know what your dog is thinking at that moment? 

For a dog, a walk isn't just physical exercise and a bathroom break. It is his mental hygiene. It is a chance to "read the morning news" (sniffing), find out what's new in the neighborhood, and simply be a dog. If we deny this by marching the dog forward like a soldier, we are not reducing his stress; we are increasing it.

Imagine a "Normal" Dog in the Forest

To understand what a quality walk looks like, forget the city for a moment. Imagine your dog free in the forest, off-leash.

How does he move? Does he walk right next to your left leg, staring deeply into your eyes? No.

• He walks in a zig-zag pattern.
• He runs to a bush, stops, and sniffs for 10 seconds.
• He marks territory.
• He suddenly sprints and stops just as suddenly to smell something.

This is natural dog behavior. This is how they gather information and, most importantly – calm their nervous system. Our job in the city is not to suppress this behavior, but to simulate it as safely as possible.

Energy Can't Be "Trained." It Must Be Released.

A standard complaint: "He doesn't listen to me! He pulls towards other dogs! I say 'No', but he doesn't care!"

Here's the thing – trying to train a dog who is over-aroused is pointless.

Imagine a pot that is boiling over. Putting a lid on it (the command "Heel" or "No") won't help. The pressure will only increase, and eventually, there will be an explosion. It's physics – energy doesn't disappear; it has to go somewhere.

What to do?

1. Before the Walk: If the dog is already "flying" in the hallway, don't start the walk. Play with him at home or in the yard for 5-10 minutes. Let off some steam before going out in public.
2. Distance Buys Time: When you see a trigger (another dog, a cat), never walk straight towards it. Arc around it, cross the street, or go into the grass. Distance gives the dog space to feel safe and time to think.
3. Scatter Feeding (Treasure Hunt): If you see another dog and your dog tenses up (but the distance is sufficient), don't try to pull him away. Instead, scatter a handful of treats in the grass. Searching and sniffing (chewing) naturally lowers the heart rate and switches the brain from "fight" to "eat."

Important: Don't be stingy! Throw a generous amount on the ground at first so it's easy for the dog to find them. The treats must be high-value and smelly (cheese, meat, not dry kibble). Get involved too – point with your finger where a treat has fallen. It's a team game.

1.5 Meters is Too Short for "Life"

If we agree that a quality walk means sniffing and zig-zag movement, the math is simple – with a standard 1.5-meter leash, this is impossible.

A short leash means:

• The dog can't sniff a bush without pulling you.
• You can't continue at your pace without pulling the dog.
• The leash is constantly tight. Tension = Stress.

That is why I always recommend using long leashes (at least 5 meters) for daily walks. A long leash gives the dog freedom of choice – he can step aside, sniff, and return while you keep walking straight. It is a "forest simulation."

Dirty Leash and Tangled Legs?

Many people are afraid of long leashes because they imagine a tangled rope that is muddy and wet. With a regular canvas leash in autumn, that really is a nightmare.

This is exactly why I manufacture my gear from Hexa material. It doesn't absorb water or mud (just wipe it off) and it doesn't slip in your hands.

Pro Tip for Use: Don't lift the leash in the air! Let it drag on the ground.

The most common mistake is trying to "gather" the leash all the time and hold it up. That is exactly when tangling happens. If the leash is on the ground ("drag line"), the dog naturally steps over it. Since Hexa doesn't absorb mud, just let it glide.

Time is Just as Important as Length: The 15-Minute Trap

Many commit the sin of "quick" walks: "I'll take him out to do his business, and that's it."

This is a mistake. On short walks, the dog realizes how interesting the outside world is, he gets aroused, adrenaline spikes, and... we go home. You have essentially just "revved him up."

The Result?

1. Going outside becomes associated only with arousal.
2. When he gets home, he can't settle down. He follows you around, reacts to every noise, and won't go to sleep.

Sleep is the most important factor. If the dog doesn't sleep after a walk, the nervous system doesn't recover.

Therefore, my rules:

• "Short" walks: No shorter than 30 minutes.
• Long walk: At least one walk a day that is at least 1 hour long.

This allows time for the nervous system to go through the full cycle: Arousal -> Sniffing -> Calming Down -> Sleep.

Technique vs. Management

Many people come to me asking: "How exactly do I teach my dog this? What command should I say at this moment?"

I'll let you in on a secret: In dog training, the technique is often very simple.

What is more complicated – and far more important than any command – is management. Success doesn't lie in the moment the dog is already barking, but in what you do before that.

• Plan: Go where you know there will be fewer triggers.
• Choose Space: Go where you can freely keep your distance.
• Prepare Fuel: Have truly tasty treats in your pocket.
• Prepare Gear: Ensure you have a long, non-slip leash and the correct harness.

Winning is smart planning that allows the battle to never begin.

Homework: The 10-Point Honesty Test

To objectively evaluate if your walks are getting better, I suggest a simple test.

The Rules: When you walk out the door, you automatically award yourself 10 points. (Just for getting up and taking the dog out – you are doing great).

But then comes the math: Every time the leash goes tight (tension occurs) – you subtract 1 point.

When you return home, calculate the score:

• 7 or more points: A good walk. You understood each other.
• Below 4 points: A bad walk. Something needs to change (location, time, or distance).
• 0 or negative: Very bad. You weren't walking; you were fighting.

This test is brutally honest, but it is the only way to understand – are we progressing, or are we just fooling ourselves?